Bhanu Athaiya: The graceful costume designer who vouched for film industry’s respect for creativity

With news coming in of the passing away of Bhanu Rajopadhye Athaiya, I’m reminded of my conversations with her, soon after I had attended the launch of her book The Art of Costume Design (Harper Collins) in New Delhi, around the Spring of 2010.

Personalities like Bhanu need no introduction. After all, she was India’s first Oscar winner. Also stands out the fact that she was the one selected by Lord Richard Attenborough to design costumes for his film Gandhi.

In fact, the more I spoke to her at the book launch evening made me curious to know her views on the various aspects of Bollywood’s who’s who. Not to be overlooked the fact that she’s ‘dressed’ many of the Bollywood’s men and women.

So I did a detailed interview with her. And one of my first queries was related to Bollywood: Whilst creating and designing costumes for actors and actresses how does she handle them, especially if they turn out to be fussy and rude. And this is what she had to say – “At the outset, I do not acknowledge the term ‘Bollywood’. The film industry has given me a platform to express my ideas. I joined the films because of my love for creativity, which I expressed through my costumes. All my directors and actors whom I have worked with through the years appreciated my ideas, put their trust in me, and gave me full scope to express myself freely ... no point was I ever a part of this industry for anything other than work. I would wake up with work on my mind, go to my workshop where my hands were full of multiple projects and after that, I would have to go to a set. There was no time for taking notice of anything else... I am a directors’ designer and I follow their dictates when coming up with the right contribution to suit the characters. I have had the most fulfilling and fruitful journey in the movies. And I continue to do so.”

Bhanu also vetoed all those notions that the film industry is ruthless and rough. “ No, I have never encountered this in my work as you can see by the way I have written about my association with the film world. Had it been ruthless, I would not have been able to do all the work I did and finally talk about it in my book.” Detailing more, “As I had said earlier, directors and actors gave me an opportunity to showcase my talent and I managed to live up to their expectations. My work spoke for itself and it was this that lead us to have many associations down the years.

So, I ended working repeatedly for many directors over a span of four decades. Some of these directors include Guru Dutt, with whom I did five landmark films. Raj Kapoor, with whom also I did a number of memorable films. Other names include Yash Chopra and B. R. Chopra on whose path-breaking films I worked. Additionally, other people with whom I have shared great rapport include Ramanand Sagar, F. C. Mehra, Lekh Tandon, and Dev Anand. The list goes on! They were all happy with my work and I was thrilled to be working with each of them….Among the stars, I worked with Waheeda Rahman on many films among the memorable ones being Guide. Hema Malini, Kamini Kaushal, Zeenat Aman, Simi Garewal, Sunil Dutt, the Kapoor family among many others. With all of them, I share happy memories and good friendship.”

She had also detailed in that interview that whilst she was designing costumes for the film ‘Gandhi’, Lord Richard Attenborough had given her total control of designing the entire wardrobe. “When Lord Attenborough chose me to work as a costume designer for his film Gandhi, he handed me the script to study and then went back to England to carry out other responsibilities pertaining to this film. He returned in time to report for the first schedule of shooting….Meanwhile, I was given total control of designing the entire wardrobe, right from Gandhiji’s character to other principal characters and the huge number of people who comprised the crowds. It required a deep study of Indian culture, which is my forte…The film covered 50 years of Gandhiji’s life span. It demanded the changing looks from several regions of India over a period of 50 years. Right from Gandhiji’s South Africa days, where one saw him in an anglicised look, to the changes that took place post his return to India to the stage where he dressed in a loincloth and shawl – I was solely responsible for creating all these looks as well as the other characters and background – the entire canvas. Lord Attenborough left all research, planning, and execution in my hands. There was no question of any interference because, in the Hollywood model of filmmaking, each Head of Department is given absolute freedom and charge.”

I had also asked Bhanu to comment on the changing patterns in the film industry, she was forthright, “I have worked with great directors like Guru Dutt, Raj Kapoor, Yash Chopra, Ramanand Sagar, Conrad Rooks, B. R. Chopra, among others. In recent times also, I have been fortunate to work for Ashutosh Gowarikar for his films — Lagaan and Swades. They trusted my ability and allowed my creativity to design costumes for their diverse characters, each with appropriate looks, which is more important for a film….There is no right or wrong time for ‘genuine creativity’. It depends on how you choose to express it. I wanted to handle each film entirely. My forte is to take control of each and every character in the film so that I can have the full cake, rather than just a slice. Good projects came my way earlier and continue to do so. These projects, both of the past and present, have great substance and scope to show creativity.”

And when I shifted focus on her personal life, she’d detailed, “ There is a misconception among people that I am from North India when the fact is I am a Maharashtrian, born in Kolhapur... . My ancestors came from a Maharashtrian Pandit family. Their vocation of mastering scriptures took them from Central India to Benaras, which was the seat of learning. Then, the Maharaja of Chittor invited them to be part of the court of the royal family. Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaja’s ancestors were part of that royal lineage, who later on moved to Raigad in Maharashtra, taking along my ancestors. Eventually, Maharani Tarabai, daughter-in-law of Shivaji, founded Kolhapur and my ancestors came along with her to work in this princely state.”

And on what keeps her going with work-- Not to be overlooked the fact that when I had met her in 2010, she was already in her early 80s but was busy with several projects. How did she deal with everyday stress and hurdles? “How did I deal with hurdles? I never took notice of any of the hurdles. I kept my focus on the goal I had to achieve and did exactly that. The rest faded into the background. I am like a soldier who has to always be on the toes. Like I had said earlier, I never had time for negativity. I never let anything interfere with my work…I have handled both my professional and personal fronts without any difficulty …I am focused on whatever I do and believe in time management….I have studied art and also a deep study of culture. I keenly observe life around me and absorb from it. I am willing to go that extra mile to acquire information required, to achieve the best for the job I undertake... . The traits that make me a success are hard work, dedication, obsession, passion, and positivity.”

And simply I had to ask her the ‘secret’ to her looking young and enthusiastic.

“ I am full of enthusiasm when I wake up in the morning. I am bubbling with ideas and am anxious to get busy with creative activities. There is never a dull moment for me... . I get along with young directors, am open to new ideas. I travel a great deal and am ready to absorb new ideas and enjoy being on the job ... In the creative world and with creative people, there are no limits of age and such issues. Creativity knows no age. I have the frame of mind of a 16-year-old and I am always ready to fall in love with life.”