Do fashion designers use activism for business only?

The world of fashion is usually treated with frivolity. Its influence and boldness are often ignored as being irrelevant. Many even assume that style and intellect can’t go hand in hand. But the worlds of glamour and politics have always had an uncanny association. But now, more than ever, the industry understands that it can’t reap one sided benefits; it holds a degree of responsibility towards its consumers and the society at large.

The past few seasons in fashion with bold comments on the tumultuous socio-political scenario around the world, like the American Presidential elections, Brexit, etc. have proved that it is time to accept that the industry and the designers do more than just clothe us.

Archuna Thakur, a fashion designer based in New Delhi says, "Industry veterans like Rei Kawakubo, Yves Saint Laurent, and Manish Arora have long been admired for their boldness and innovation. But it is the new crop of designers, who are creating with a conscience." Lately, the fashion scene around the world is seeing a rise in the number of conscious designers who aim to designs attractive and responsible clothing, for which they have garnered praise and criticism, alike.

Prabal Gurung, a Nepali-American fashion designer, who has clothed the likes of Michelle Obama and Oprah Winfrey, created shirts with bold sayings like, “The Future Is Female”, “I am An Immigrant”, “Revolution Has No Borders”, etc. He featured models of varied ethnicities and races and made sure that all body types and sizes had equal representation on his runway.

His collection was admired for bravely and creatively using this platform to touch upon issues of feminism, racism and inclusiveness. However, the cherry on top was, of course, Gurung himself, making his way on to the runway, wearing a shirt that said, “This Is What a Feminist Looks Like”.

Delhi-born, London-based fashion designer Ashish Gupta is famous for the way he blends elements of his native culture with the changing face of contemporary fashion. Recently, at his show at the London Fashion Week, he showcased a collection which seemed to be squarely targeting US President, Donald Trump and his policies. His collection seemed to celebrate the LGBTQ+ community, women and racial differences. Ashish has always been known for his subtle symbolism and extravagance, but last season, this took a whole new meaning.

These designers are, however, not practising this activism in isolation. The fashion website, Business of Fashion, created the hashtag #TiedTogether, to promote the principles of inclusivity and acceptance, and to support to organisation like American Civil Liberties Union (ACLU) and the UN Refugee Agency. The fashion industry is celebrating the hashtag and all that it stands for by means of a white bandana. In past few months, the white bandana has become a style statement and the fashion industry’s answer to intolerance and hatred. Prabal Gurung, Gigi Hadid, and Diane Von Furstenberg have proudly sported the same.

The unmistakable and powerful Pink Pussy Hats, popularized in January, during the Women’s March across the world has also made it to the runways. Where clothes failed, many designers took aid from music to make a statement. Belgian designer, Raf Simon, played ‘This Is Not America’, by David Bowie, as the background tune to his show. Similarly, the models at Cushnie Et Ochs walked to the lyric ‘future is female’. The designers made sure to appeal to all the senses of the fashion goers.

Meeta Sareen, a designer from New Delhi, believes that fashion can be one of the most impressive tools to make a change. "Clothing is already being used to deliver messages of freedom of choice, feminism, body positivity etc. Using fashion as a weapon against policies you don't agree with or ideas you don't stand for has been a consistent trend. It's heartening to see that now it's being received so well across the world." she added.

The reflection of social activism in fashion has also met with criticism. Many suspect that behind intense slogans and statements, brands and designers have one motive: profit.

The white cotton and linen blend T-shirts by Dior for example, simply contain “We Should All Be Feminist”, a line from Nigerian author, Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie’s essay, printed in black ink.

Here, it is important to note that the T-shirt has been designed by Dior’s creative head, Maria Grazia Chiuri, the first female head of the renowned brand. However, it’s quite hard to justify the fact that the shirt, which has already been sported by Rihanna, Kendall Jenner and Natalie Portman, retails at a whopping $710. Many people have expressed their anger at the exorbitantly high price tag, calling it absurd, because a price this high can only be a charitable opportunity for the rich. Several online stores are selling the same shirt for $20-$30, which is a much more affordable option.

"It is correct that fashion is slowly becoming very political charged. But not all brands and designers undertake activism with noble intentions. At the end of the day, many companies want to maximise their gains and the newly established trend of activism is a great bandwagon for them to jump upon in order to achieve their motives", says Meenakshi Dutt, a make-up artist and stylist.

Today’s volatile social and political environment has necessitated not just influencers, but also citizens to stand up for their beliefs. However, the popularity and attention the designers are receiving often turns the activism into a business. But it’s vital that we appreciate, or criticise their efforts with a grain of salt. And even though we should be cautious when a brand makes big claims, we cannot discredit the work of all those who are putting their powers to good use.