These dargahs defy hate with Diwali

If you wish to see the helplessness of hatemongers, come to the land of the Ganga-Jamuni culture during Diwali.

In Awadh, during Diwali and Holi, despite all their devious schemes to stoke violence, division and hatred, the real spirit of these festivals is vibrantly alive in the Sufi shrines of Dewa Sharif and Kichhauchha Sharif.

Dewa Sharif is only 42 km from Lucknow, the capital of Uttar Pradesh, and 12 km from Barabanki, considered the heart of Awadh. Kichhauchha Sharif is 20-odd km from the headquarters of Ambedkarnagar district, which was carved out of Faizabad (now known as Ayodhya).

For ages, these two dargahs have been lighting the torch of Ganga-Jamuni culture during Diwali and Holi with unwavering passion, seemingly untouched by the hateful air that envelops them. Dewa Sharif has a simple yet profound message: those who fight in the name of religion do not understand its essence. ‘Jo Rab hai wahi Ram hai (The One who is Rab is also Ram)', they say.

During Holi, the chant fills the air like the colours of abir gulal and people here just forget that they are Hindu or Muslim or Sikh. Visitors who come for the Holi celebrations — pilgrims from different regions and religions, who speak different tongues — may not take back much else but they always return with a message of peace, harmony and unity in diversity.

Dewa Sharif is the resting place of the renowned Sufi saint Haji Waris Ali Shah, also known as Waris Sarkar. Just as they celebrate Holi together, throwing colours at each other with affection, so also they light up the shrine with diyas during Diwali, marking the occasion with festivities known as Jashn-e-Chiraghan.

The entrance to the dargah is known as the ‘door of communal unity.’ Strict rules prohibit any hateful slogans that may provoke unrest within the premises. Only slogans that foster communal harmony are allowed here.

Many people link these traditions to the nawabs of Awadh, particularly Nawab Wajid Ali Shah and his queen Hazrat Mahal, who embraced a way of life that wouldn’t abide any discrimination between Hindus and Muslims. It is said that while many contributed to the growth of this culture in the Ganga-Yamuna belt, it was the Sufi saints who truly laid its foundation.

Awadh is home to numerous such saints, including Malik Muhammad Jayasi, whose name is linked to the town of Jayas. Scholars debate whether he was born in the Jayas of Raebareli district or the Jayas that was part of Sultanpur district, which is now in Amethi.

Turning to Kichhauchha Sharif, the Diwali fair here is like no other. Known as ‘Aghan mela’, it starts on Diwali and goes on for 40 days. People come from all over. Apart from Diwali and Ekadashi, Thursdays are also special during this period.

On the night of Diwali, the banks of the sacred ‘neer sharif’ (a holy pond) are illuminated with candles and ghee lamps (ghee ke chiragh), and the entire dargah is filled with the fragrance of incense.

This celebration of lights is considered the essence of the Aghan fair, where children also undergo their first head-shaving ceremony (mundan). An additional two-day event called Ghusl Mubarak is held during this fair, where the mazaar of the saint Makhdoom Ashraf Jahangir Simnani is bathed with 40 pots of rose and kewra water after the celebrations. This sacred water is then distributed among the devotees.

The distinct charm of Kichhauchha Sharif lies in its matchless Sufi character. All year round, the shrine attracts a steady stream of devotees and faqirs, and fairs are a regular occurrence here.

Makhdoom Ashraf Jahangir Simnani, the saint of this dargah, is said to have been born in the Simnan province of Iran. At the age of 13, he became the ruler of the province, but soon gave the throne to his younger brother and chose the path of Sufism. After travelling around the world to spread the message of Sufism, he arrived in India and made Kichhauchha his permanent abode.

Legend has it that he personally oversaw the digging of the neer sharif pond over six centuries ago. There’s a belief that those who bathe in this pond are cured of all ailments.

The annual urs (death anniversary) of the mystic is held from the 25th to the 28th of the month of Muharram, the 28th being the date of Ashraf Simnani’s departure from this world.

According to tradition, the current head of the shrine dons the centuries-old sacred robe (khirka mubarak), and devotees gather in large numbers to witness it and seek blessings. It is believed that all wishes and prayers are fulfilled during this time.

Apart from the urs, there is also a Muharram fair that takes place from the 3rd to the 10th of Muharram, with processions of chowki, alam and taazia that conclude on the night of the 10th. These processions end with the burial of the large taazia along with several smaller ones at the bank of neer sharif. The large taazia is made from the ceremonial chadar devotees offer at the dargah.

Another big event is the two-week Ajmeri fair in the month of Rajab (the seventh month of the Islamic calendar), during which devotees headed to Ajmer Sharif stop here for blessings before continuing their journey. The first Thursday of every month also features a Nauchandi Mela, a.k.a. the monthly fair.

At a time when hate fills the air and airwaves, these dargahs stand as living symbols of harmony and unity, their lights shining brightly in defiance of hatred.